Get to Know A Grape: Italy's Susumaniello
When a little-known wine is at Trader Joe's you know it just hit mainstream
The other day when I went to shop at my local Trader Joe’s, in Palm Desert, CA, I was super surprised to see bottles of the Italian wine Susumaniello on an aisle end cap. Those are coveted placements in the grocery world, and here was Trader Joe’s, promoting a red Italian wine that most folks don’t know about. So what is Susumaniello anyway?
Susumaniello is a red grape variety native to Puglia in Southern Italy, predominantly in the Brindisi area. You may be familiar with Primitivo and burrata cheese, which also come from Puglia.
The way I got to know Susumaniello is thanks to Tenute Rubino, a winery which has been on a mission to save the Susumaniello vines that were otherwise being pulled out and replaced with other more productive and in-demand varieties. The Rubino family planted Susumaniello in its Jaddico estate, and now explores the many styles of wine made from this grape. Tenute Rubino calls this the Susumaniello Project.
Susumaniello is a relative bargain when it comes to red wines, mostly less than $30/bottle. Wines to try:
Tenute Rubino Oltremé Rosato IGT Salento. This rosé of Susumaniello is pinkish with an orange tint color, with intense strawberry, rose and blood orange blood orange aromas and flavors. It’s crisp and delicious.
Tenute Rubino Oltremé DOC Brindisi. A 100% Susumaniello wine, it has an opaque ruby color, blackberry and blueberry fruit, with savory notes of cedar, sage, black pepper, and black olive. Tannins are soft and the finish is full of mocha flavor.
Teneute Rubino Jaddico DOC Brindisi Riserva. The name Jaddico comes from Tenute Rubino’s estate vineyard. What makes this blend, a mix of 80% Negroamaro and 20% Susumaniello, a Riserva is longer aging, especially in oak barrels. Jaddico is ruby, almost black hue in the glass, with a very herbal nose. You can smell the sage, rosemary, thyme and tea. It’s loaded with black fruit - blackberry, black cherry, black plum, and there’s a balsamic vinegar flavor, along with aromas of leather and tobacco. Get ready for big tannins!
Tenute Rubino Torre Testa DOC Brindisi. I love the bold label on this complexand lively 100% Susumaniello wine, evoking a work of modern abstract art. The lush plum and cherry fruit melds with lots of spice. Think black pepper and cinnamon, with a memorable chocolate finish.
Ruggero di Bardo Susmeniello, Puglia (Trader Joe’s) This is a super fruity wine with some noticeable tannins and lots of earthy notes.